Maison Margiela Men's Spring Summer 2018
02 Jan 2018
Following the 2009 departure of the French fashion house's namesake Martin Margiela, a 28 strong design team led the brands movements without any single creative force to look to. In 2014, John Galliano was appointed Creative director, a bold move that breathed life into the Parisian Design house, paving the way for new creative energy and a fresh perspective for the label. The French label is renowned for its deconstruction of materials and up cycling techniques alongside it's consistent rejection of high gloss, polished fashion. With it's 'no brand' approach to branding, through the use of a white thread tag rather than plastering of a logo, the label reinforces ideas of anti establishment culture, through both Avant-Garde designs revealing garments structure, and the intentional exposing of seams and linings. It's a bear all, hide nothing approach to design, while at the same timing omitting the application of a showy logo, which speaks volumes for the grassroots identity of the brand. The house made the decision to sit out the Paris men's SS18 shows, declaring the house is aligning its men's ready-to-wear collection with its women's line, as well as forming closer ties to it's couture collection. Margiela instead presented the collection directly to buyers from a showroom, claiming back the reigns of exclusivity in an increasingly overshared, digitised fashion landscape. New CEO, Riccardo Bellini, intends to re-evaluate the strategy for the brand going forward to ensure it's voice is correctly positioned within the fast moving fashion climate. The label has certainly regained its momentum, treading with quiet confidence. From the beginning, Margiela has retained a cool, semi anonymous stance in a loud and fame hungry scene, worlds away from today's social media obsessed culture of selfies and self promotion. The house pioneered street casting of models, encouraging community input and a fresh take on the regimented ideals of the industry. John Galliano's contribution to the house's creative output moves into an era of redefining classics through the reworking of traditional shapes and textures. For Spring Summer 2018, the collection echoes the rebellious message of it's forerunners, with Galliano's finding inspiration in the idea of 'dressing in haste'. Picture a thrown together look, but without the flustered energy. Galliano's vision seemed to be that of exuding glamour through an effortless approach, confidently clumsy. A mockery of perfection perhaps? Galliano certainly searched for the out of context glamour, referred to by Margiela "unconscious glamour": piecing together the scruffy and casual with the preened and polished. Expect minimal grid prints, exposed seams, retro influences with soft tailoring, strong hardware accessories and ironic graphic tees. View Maison Margiela Spring Summer 2018 here.