Paris Fashion Week Review
Last weekend it was Paris fashion week: a chance for our favourite designers to showcase their new collections. And they didn't disappoint; Rick Owen's explained - “When I look at the collection, it’s very much about bundling up, it’s about wrapping up. It’s like getting ready for turbulence”. Owens' modern day armour consisted of wrap-around duvet jackets, voluminous pants and gigantic puffa-cocoons. Rick Owens is a rebel with proportion, forever twisting and challenging the convention of shape. The collection was aptly entitled Glitter: 'Glitter referred to a period in the seventies celebrating sleaze, transgression, sexual liberation and anti-conformity'.
The Autumn Winter runways were dominated by series of power partnerships between the worlds fashion heavyweights: First Louis Vuitton shocked the world collaborating with skatewear brand Supreme and then it was Junya Watanabe's Autumn Winter collection that bucked the trend. On the face of it Junya's latest collaboration with North Face seems an unlikely meeting of minds but Watanabe is famous for his collaborations with brands who are famed for their product specialities: his previous collaborations with denim experts Levi's and shoe masterminds Converse have been proved hugely popular in the past. The group love between brands did not stop there as there were jackets from Carhartt - both Junya and Carhartt are famed for their approach to workwear and practicality. There was a keen focus on technical fabrics and there was a re-imagination of collaborators logos and classic Carhartt/North Face styles. Be warned: the logo is back for AW17 and Junya was just one of the brands brandishing oversized logo's like Dior, Louis Vuitton and Dries Van Note.
As the penultimate show of Paris fashion week the pressure to deliver something spectacular was on and Thom Browne certainly grabbed the attention of many. In a palette of purely tweed grey, traditional tailoring transcended fashion and became awe inspiring cubist sculptures, pieced together from 2D structured tailored blocks. More surrealism than Cubism, the outfits were finished with cyborg inspired matching felt helmets and extremely oversized sleeves. Thom Browne revels in the avant garde and the theatre esq nature of fashion, bordering on the line of brilliance and bonkers. Attention-grabbing gimmicks aside, it’s easy to forget that Browne’s strength lies in the tailoring. Go deeper than just the oversized sleeves and you find perfect details like the wool buttons being applied as almost all over studs. And for your future Vogue pub quiz answer, a total of around 50,000 buttons were used in the collection, and around 1,200 yards of Harris Tweed. Amazing.