Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Round Up
Rick Owens Spring Summer 2018: The show was as much about rejection as it was about hope. As so often with Owens', much of the collection looked like protection against the elements with puffed "meringues" draped into shapes that looked like the foam whipped up by the rising tide. Outfits stuffed with pillows were reminiscent of Rei Kawakubo of Comme des Garçons, the two share the same innovative genius that sets them apart from the rest. With the exception of a deep green, the show was almost entirely in white, part of the "experimental grace" spoke about in his collection notes. Canvas fabrics were contrasted with satin sheen almost just as Owens' transforms beauty from the rough.
Comme Des Garcons Spring Summer 2018: Despite Rei Kawakubo delving into the mainstream with her recent Met exhibition, the Japanese designer will never conform nor change her principles. Presented in the imposing Russian Embassy, a place of politics, protocol and rules, she presented a playful and mischievous collection full of child-like rebellion. As the rest of luxury fashion becomes more commercialised, Kawakubo (like Rick Owens) becomes ever more extreme and avant-garde. “Multi-dimensional graffiti” was all Kawakubo would say about her collection on Saturday evening: Courage and innovation aplenty, the fabrics were a mix of vibrant pop-art prints and the hallucinogenic still-lifes of Giuseppe Arcimboldo. In total, ten different artists were referenced which was symbolic of how Graffiti itself is a artistic freedom of expression - and so to are the wonderful sculptures Kawakubo creates.
Junya Watanabe Spring Summer 2018: For years Watanabe has been enamoured with the historic punk rock look and his fascination with the trend evolved this season into something less urban and more organic. On a gloomy morning at the Université Paris Descartes, Junya brought light and joy along with his usual punk-ish brigade of models. Obscurely, it was the design of Finland in the ’50s and ’60s that provided the inspiration - a time when humanity's sole focus was creating a bright and happy life through design. Junya juxtaposed his urban punk models with classic Scandinavian pattern of vegetables and flowers, emphasising the ease and tension between the planet and humanity itself. Junya sent out bold monochrome prints from Marimekko's, a Finnish home furnishings company whose colourful printed patterns are world renowned, in abstract shapes that appear in nature. Spring after all is about re-aligning oneself with nature.