Thom Browne's latest collection for Spring / Summer 2018
Thom Browne’s offering for Spring Summer 2018 embodies his craftsmanship, expert tailoring and of course tricolour detailing in his signature red, white and blue. His menswear show was refreshingly transgressive, with the designer blurring the lines between gender typical dressing. Male models sported tailored skirts in tones of grey, alongside tailored jackets and cashmere knits. Browne’s intention was to remind us of a simpler time: a time when in our infancy, we would dress in any kind of clothing, with little attention paid to gender norms. Social conditioning and conventional thinking tends to dictate our fashion choices, no matter how individual we may believe ourselves to be. Thom Browne regained this control at his menswear show, with models storming the runway in midi, maxi and pleated skirts, maintaining a masculine silhouette through their blunt confidence and well thought out fabrics. Browne certainly raised an important conversation about gender fluidity, with the collection still on point and cohesive despite his unconventional styling. The rest of the collection presents an array of beautiful designed pieces, for both men and women. The collection sees heavy knit pullovers crafted in Ireland from British wool, with tricolour detail, bar stripes and chunky mixed knits. Many pieces feature Browne's signature asymmetric hem, from knitwear to polo shirts and sweaters: a playful detail the designer is now renowned for. For the Spring collection, Thom Browne fuses formalwear elements with casual detailing. A perfect example of this aesthetic fusion is a pair of slim fitting wool blend sweat pants. The pants are crafted in smooth fine knit wool in medium grey, with a mixed mesh tricolour panel on one leg, drawstring waist and tapered cuffs. All his pieces appear exceptionally well tailored, with sports-luxe finishes or nautical detailing, reinforcing the designers signature American sportswear influences. Bar striped branding is applied throughout the collection, along with his signature red, white and blue tones, often in a grosgrain finish or Instarsia knit. Asymmetry continues in abundance, with mismatching hemlines, half and half knit, or one sided tricolour branding. Gold toned buttons with engraved anchor logos nod to nautical aesthetics, and are scattered across many pieces achieving a satisfying contrast. For Spring '18 Browne continues to utilise premium fabrics such as fine knit merino wool, super soft cashmere and pique textured cotton, adapting the fabrics to his precise tailoring and uniformed aesthetic. Classic shapes are reimagined with Browne's recognisable tricolour finishes, the outcome being clean, well designed pieces that will stand the test of time, both in terms of style and quality. Classic staples reappear alongside fresh designs, all with Browne's iconic branding and attention to detail present throughout.