Thom Browne, twice honored with the CDFA “Menswear Designer of the Year” Award, started his career in 1997 working in the Giorgio Armani showroom in New York moving then in the creative department of Club Monaco, until he launched his own line.
He uniquely manages to detach from the sportswear, casual wear trend: “Jeans and a T-shirt have become establishment, everyone’s dressed down. So actually putting on a jacket is the anti-establishment stance.” This is briefly Bowne’s philosophy: he has a strong tailoring appeal with a playful and progressive edge.
He takes inspiration from classic American style but updates the cuts with preppy details such as cropped trousers and downsized fits.
Browne shocked to the fashion world at first, to then place him at the leading edge for men and women.
His whole brand and aesthetic, his collections and his shows bring a new vision into the city fashion industry season on season.
For AW 16 fashion show he recreated a public garden featuring pine trees and park benches, all surrounded by an eerily drizzle. The scene was set about a hundred years ago, with a clear reference to The Great Depression.
The garments are continuously deconstructed and reconstructed, keywords to this specific collection; he re-purposed the clothes into totally new and different garments.
The final result is a sophisticated collection; the designer blended these complex garments with more practical and comfortable pieces, such as knitted sweater-like dresses, paneled jackets and pleated V-neck matching dresses.
“You buy beautiful clothes and they’re such good quality that you don’t want to throw them away, you just want to re-appropriate them into something new.” Says the designer.
Time is precious and nowadays it has become even more valuable, it is now luxury. It definitely took a long time to craft the garments showcased, which are indubitably luxurious: the distressing, patching, tearing and darning are surely more time consuming than the creation of a blemished outfit, but they can be even more perfect; “sometimes it’s more beautiful,” says Browne.
Thom Browne has been many years as creative director at Club Monaco; but believing that the modern universal invasion of casual-wear makes the wearing of suits a kind of revolutionary edge Browne has become known for his re-interpretation of classic tailored cuts. He launched his label in New York in 2003 and introduced his first full line of women’s ready-to-wear in 2011.
Thom Browne takes classic styles of trousers, jackets, and dresses, usually in an American palette of red, white and navy, and adds unique details such as textured weaves, sequined ginghams and original prints, blending in this way exquisite tailoring and innovative take. The shapes are traditional and crafted in richly textured natural materials in a muted colour palette; the slightly demure silhouettes are finished with decorative accents, which confer an offbeat dash on heritage elegance.
Browne presents his menswear in Paris and his women’s collection in New York. The shows are always highly conceptual and extravagant. The American designer is known for having created a ‘new’ silhouette in men’s tailoring, and the same can be said of his womenswear. He has also been awarded many prizes, including the CFDA’s ‘Menswear Designer of the Year’ and ‘Cooper-Hewitt National Design Award’. Thom Browne is definitely one of the most exciting designers of the, well worth investing in.
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